BY LADA BRETEL
Oman is known for various tranquil escapes from reality in the middle of the desert. Take your pick – from luxurious resorts and boutique hotels to glampings and camping spots under the stars.
LADA BRETEL
You’ll find one such escape in the Al Khaluf desert, or the Sugar Dunes of Oman. The homonymous resort in question won’t disappoint: it offers stunning views all around, great service, and a real chance to recharge in the wild.
The desert, the sea, the sun
White Sugar Dunes Beach Resort features a number of holiday comforts for a memorable stay. Several cozy chalets surround a pool and a jacuzzi. Insta-worthy swings welcome you in, while your kids can spend time at a small playground. The resort rises above the surrounding sands, bridging two contrasting worlds – the Arabian Sea and the Al Khaluf desert. And quite unexpectedly, the white chalets fit so well in the scenery, they may as well be extensions of the dunes.

The entire resort seems to be yearning for the sea it’s facing, and that’s what you feel as well the moment you get there. The sounds of small waves breaking on the shore follow you whenever you’re outside. If you arrive in the late afternoon, you can enjoy a drink on the terrace to the accompaniment of the waves or take a walk along the beach, which spreads for miles in both directions.
Then, I’d recommend a hike in the white dunes to catch the sunset. The hotel staff will tell you when exactly the best time to do that is. You’ll find yourself transfixed by the sun melting over the desert, painting the sky in shades of ochre and sandy beige. And if you hike far enough from the beach, you’ll hear only the merciless desert wind and feel the power and the calm of the untamed Al Khaluf.

The sunset takes place around 5:30–7 pm, depending on the season, so your day doesn’t end there. After dinner, go back to the beach for a mesmerizing experience. Urged by the wind, the waves whoosh in stronger than before, chasing nocturnal ghost crabs around the shore. And above that battle of crustaceans against the elements is another sea — that of stars. Watching the sky canvas, as though embroidered with diamonds, feels like a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but the beauty of Oman is that it’s not. The country offers numerous opportunities for stargazing.
Embracing the moment in time
You get that ‘grounding’ sensation on the way to the resort already, while driving through the desert to reach it. White sands envelope the road, and in the off-season your car is likely to be the only one there — a mechanical beast where camels would be a better fit. I went to the resort with my husband and son in early May, and only three chalets were occupied that weekend, so it felt like an exquisite, private stay in the Sugar Dunes of Oman.
Getting to the resort will take some time, so it’s best to plan a weekend trip or a week-long stay. A 4 x 4 vehicle would be your best choice for the trip — otherwise prepare for a bit of a bumpy ride across the last wild stretch of the road toward the hotel. You can drive all the way from Muscat for about 5 hours or fly into the port town of Duqm and rent a car there. This will probably cut down the drive by half.
The journey will be very much worth your while, whether you travel with a family, a significant other, or a friend group. Apart from the natural wonders, White Sugar Dunes Beach Resort boasts activities for any taste. If the weather and the desert winds allow, sports enthusiasts can go for a bike ride through the sands, or rent kayaks and jet skis at the beach. It’s also possible to hop on a dune buggy for a true immersion in Oman’s desert landscapes.
And of course, no proper escape from your daily routine would be complete without an hour or two of spa-time, so the resort covers that need too with Ayuverdic and other treatments tailored to your needs.

Modern comforts amid the dunes
No matter how you choose to spend your time at the resort during the day, the nights promise comfort and quiet — the moment you step inside, the noises of the outdoors vanish. The chalet will greet you with a modern design and the usual hotel perks, like bathroom essentials, tea, and coffee. The rooms differ by size, so both a party of two or a family of six can have an enjoyable stay there.
The resort is remote, so you won’t find cafés or shops nearby. But the restaurant on-site serves buffet and á la carte options, with different curated menus three times a day. The team at White Sugar Dunes Beach Resort is accommodating and happy to meet your needs – from preferred dining times to extra helpings of food for your child (the tomato soup with croutons was a big hit at our table).
After just one long weekend at the resort, you’ll go back to loud city life, renewed and somewhat dreamy. Was that sweet respite amidst sugary-white sands even real? I’ll definitely have to go back to double-check.

