BY ERIN COYLE
Several drivers called out asking if I needed a taxi while I was walking past the many cafes and souvenir shops across from the corniche in Mutrah. I smiled, thanked them, and told them I did not need a ride.
I was walking toward an old white house with blue-sky colored balconies and blue windows. It caught my eye from a distance, so I wanted to take a picture. I would soon realize why Mutrah would become one of my favorite places in Muscat.
I lived in Sur for six years, and the day after moving to Muscat, I decided I needed a break from unpacking. I drove to Mutrah to see an art exhibition. While walking through the narrow lanes to reach the historic houses where the displays were, I kept looking around and noticing old traditional wooden doors and old mud homes. It was quiet weaving through the lanes, and I kept thinking, ‘If these walls could talk.’
I made a mental note to come back to Mutrah to explore more because I wanted to wander and get lost. What I thought would be a one- or two-visit return has become a weekly occurrence. The lively fish souq and vegetable market, the architecture, and early mornings are some of the reasons why I like this old area.
Fish souq
Stalls fill up quickly with varieties of fish ready to sell at the fish souq, including tuna and shrimp. Behind the market by the dock, sometimes groups of eight men will be removing fish from green nets, while others are putting fish in buckets.
I pause and watch these scenes and then head to the vegetable market across from the fish souq. I’m a tourist in my own town, as I usually take pictures because I might notice something that wasn’t there before, such as fresh dates.
Mornings at the souq
Walking through the souq in the early morning, before everything opens, to reach the corniche is a peaceful and calm experience. There’s no noise or people. Walking past the shops, one will see the storefront metal gates or blue and red fabrics covering them.
It is easy to spot the blue, green, yellow, and purple glass third eyes embossed on the steps of a shop. These colorful steps would otherwise go overlooked when it’s open, as the souq becomes crowded.
One alley has a striking Emerald-green door with dark wood trim leaning against the wall in the corner—something else I may not have noticed in the busy night.
Architecture
Mutrah’s architecture is another reason to explore the area. Some of the older, whitewashed buildings feature latticed windows and colored balconies, such as black, pale blue, and apricot orange. I always notice a new building or alley that I did not spot on my previous visit.
The traditional wooden doors with embossed flowers highlight the craftsmanship and hard work that goes into making them. Every door has a story.
Food
One building not to miss is across from the fish souq. The top floor is a restaurant, Bait Al Luban and the first floor is Muska Cafe and Art Gallery. Both provide an insight into Omani culture and elegance.
Bait Al Luban offers traditional food, including Shuwa and Qabouli. Old silver teapots and clay pottery water pitchers are among the traditional decorative items. The shuwa lasagna and date cake hit the spot.
Upon entering Muska Cafe and Art Gallery, @muska_om, the beige sofas and wooden coffee tables make one feel like they’re sitting in someone’s living room. The artwork changes regularly, and the cafe offers a variety of drinks, desserts, and food, including penne pasta and eggs Benedict. Don’t miss trying the halwa and kak.
Mutrah
Whether taking a walk, snapping more photos of buildings and doors, or enjoying coffee at Muska, Mutrah continues to draw me in. It could be the stillness in the early morning or the lively scenes at the fish souq. Either way, I always look forward to discovering this old neighborhood.
Keep up to date with Erin’s travels on social here.
